The 3-4 point is one of the oldest and most solid ways to take a corner. It is lopsided — three lines from one edge and four from the other — and it leaves the owner with a simple question: enclose the corner with a second stone, or play elsewhere and let the opponent approach? This article explains the ideas behind the 3-4 point and the most common approach, the small knight approach, without long sequences to memorise.
The 3-4 point
A single stone on the 3-4 point holds the corner reasonably well, but not completely. With a second stone — an enclosure — the corner becomes very solid territory, and it also provides a base from which to extend along the sides.
Because the enclosure is so solid, the opponent often tries to prevent it by approaching the corner first.
The small knight approach
The most common approach is the small knight approach: a stone placed a knight's move away from the 3-4 stone, along the edge where Black's stone sits on the fourth line.
The approaching stone does two things: it stops Black from enclosing the corner on that side, and it prepares to settle along the side.
Black's main answers
As with the star point, Black has a few broad options:
Protect and build
Black plays a move that keeps the corner and pushes the approaching stone toward a narrow space. Simple, solid answers of this kind are a good default for beginners.
Attach or undercut
Black plays in contact with the approaching stone, often from underneath, to secure the corner territory quickly and force White to build a wall outside. The result is typically territory for Black, influence for White.
Pincer
Black places a stone further along the side to squeeze the approaching stone. This is more aggressive and leads to fights; it is best when Black has support nearby.
Tenuki
Black ignores the approach and plays elsewhere. The corner then becomes vulnerable to a second approach or an invasion, but Black gains a move somewhere important.
Reading the result, not the sequence
Every choice leads to a well-known family of sequences. You do not need to memorise them. What you need to understand is the result:
- Who has the corner territory?
- Who has a wall, and which way does it face?
- Are any stones weak afterwards?
Then ask whether that result fits the rest of the board. If White's wall would face your strong stones, giving it is fine. If it would face open space where White can build, prefer an answer that keeps White low.
Common mistakes
- Never enclosing. A 3-4 stone that is approached from both sides can become weak.
- Always enclosing immediately, even when a much bigger point exists elsewhere.
- Giving White a wall facing open space because you wanted the corner too much.
- Pincering from the wrong side, pushing the approaching stone toward your opponent's strength.
3-4 point versus star point
The 3-4 point is more territorial and more secure in the corner; the star point is faster and more influence-oriented. Many players prefer the 3-4 point because the corner is harder to invade once enclosed. See star point versus 3-4 point.
How to practise
Play 13 × 13 games against the computer on the home page starting with 3-4 points. When the computer approaches, try a different answer each game and compare the results. Against people on the online page, sign in on your account so that you can replay the corner afterwards and judge whether your answer fitted the board.
Related articles: what is joseki, choosing joseki by direction, joseki mistakes beginners make.
A note on the enclosures themselves
Different enclosures give slightly different corners. A small knight enclosure (the point marked in the first diagram) is compact and very hard to invade. A wider enclosure claims more side space but leaves more room for the opponent to reduce or invade later. Beginners usually do well with the compact one: it lets you forget about the corner and focus on the rest of the board.
When to enclose
A useful rule of thumb: enclose when your corner is the biggest point on the board and nothing urgent is happening elsewhere. If your opponent has a weak group you can attack, or if one of your own groups needs help, the enclosure can wait. If you have several 3-4 corners and none is enclosed, the opponent can approach each of them in turn; enclosing at least one early gives you a secure base.
What White wants after approaching
It helps to see the corner from White's side too. After the small knight approach, White usually wants one of three things: to settle quickly along the side with a small but safe group; to slide under Black's corner and take some of its territory; or to build a wall on the outside if Black takes the corner. Knowing which of these White is aiming for tells you which answer will frustrate it most. If White's approaching stone has friends further along the side, White can settle easily, and Black may prefer to take the corner solidly. If White is alone, Black may be able to attack.
The corner after the dust settles
Whatever sequence is played, check two things at the end. First, is the corner territory secure, or can it still be invaded? Second, are any stones — Black's or White's — left weak, with little room to make eyes? A corner sequence that leaves both sides strong is balanced; one that leaves one side with a floating weak group has created a target for the middle game. That target is often worth more than the corner itself.
Frequently asked questions
What is a small knight approach?
An approach stone placed a knight's move (one line over, two lines along) away from the 3-4 stone.
Should I always enclose a 3-4 corner?
Not always, but an enclosed 3-4 corner is very solid. If nothing more urgent exists, enclosing is a good move.
Which answer is best for beginners?
Simple answers that protect the corner and leave you without weak stones.
Why does the undercut give White influence?
Because White is pushed to build a wall on the outside while Black takes the corner.
Is the 3-4 point good on 9 × 9?
On 9 × 9 the geometry is different and the centre is often stronger. The 3-4 ideas matter mostly on 13 × 13 and 19 × 19.
